How to Choose Needles for Permanent Makeup and Tattooing
Innovation Within Every Artist’s Reach
Over the past few years, WJX cartridges have become widely used among tattoo and permanent makeup artists. The brand continues to develop its own cartridge lines, with a focus on design, materials, needle stability, and protective features.
Today, WJX has representatives in 17 countries, including the United States and Canada. Its product range includes a variety of needle configurations and diameters, allowing artists to select a cartridge suited to a specific technique and application.
However, even a high-quality cartridge cannot guarantee good results on its own. Needle diameter, the number of needles in the configuration, configuration type, taper length, and the characteristics of the treatment area all directly affect how the tool performs. Choosing the right cartridge therefore requires a considered approach.
In this article, the WJX team shares practical recommendations and explores the key needle characteristics that permanent makeup and tattoo artists should consider when selecting their tools.
Needle Anatomy and Basic Concepts
How Do Tattoo and Permanent Makeup Needles Differ, and Can the Same Cartridges Be Used for Both?
It would be inaccurate to strictly classify modern cartridges as either “tattoo” or “PMU” based on a single parameter. Many manufacturers offer versatile product lines, and the same needle diameters and configurations may be used in both tattooing and permanent makeup.
What matters most is the combination of characteristics: needle diameter, configuration, number of needles in the grouping, taper length, cartridge design, and the technique being used.
Fine needles are often used in permanent makeup, particularly when working on delicate areas or creating fine lines. However, a smaller diameter alone does not make a needle a “PMU needle,” just as a larger diameter does not automatically make it exclusively a tattoo needle.
For example, the WJX range includes Round Liner needles in 0.20, 0.25, 0.30, and 0.35 mm diameters. The WJX WONDER line offers single RL needles in an even wider range, from 0.16 to 0.50 mm.
When selecting a cartridge, artists should therefore consider the specific task, treatment area, skin characteristics, technique, and their own level of control over the tool.
It is important to remember that the risk of excessive skin trauma depends on more than needle diameter alone. The artist’s technique, working depth, machine settings, hand speed, number of passes, and other procedural factors also play a role.
What Does the Labeling on the Package Mean? How Do You Read Markings Such as 1RL or 7F?
The markings help identify the main characteristics of a needle configuration.
The number generally indicates how many needles are grouped together, while the letters indicate the type of configuration.
RL (Round Liner) — a round configuration in which the needles are grouped relatively tightly together. It is used for lines, outlines, and other applications that require precise, controlled work.
RS (Round Shader) — a round configuration with the needles arranged more loosely. It can be used for shading, soft fills, and creating smooth transitions.
F (Flat) — a flat configuration in which the needles are arranged in a single row. Depending on the number of needles, their diameter, and the technique used, Flat configurations can be suitable for various lining and shading applications.
M (Magnum) — a wide, flat configuration in which the needles are typically arranged in multiple rows. Magnum configurations are particularly useful for working across larger areas and creating denser fills. There are also different types of Magnum configurations, including Round Magnum, which features a rounded outer edge.
However, letter codes alone are not enough. Two RL cartridges can differ significantly in needle diameter, the number of needles in the grouping, and taper length.
Key Factors: Diameter, Configuration, and Taper
Why Are Fine Needles Popular in Permanent Makeup?
In permanent makeup, artists work on relatively small areas where precision and control are particularly important. This is why fine single-needle and small needle configurations are widely used for eyebrows, eyelids, and lips.
However, the rule “the finer the needle, the better” does not apply.
A very fine needle concentrates its impact on a small area and therefore requires good hand control. The result depends not only on needle diameter but also on taper length, machine settings, needle hang, technique, hand speed, and the number of passes.
WJX offers a variety of needle diameters, allowing artists to select the right tool for a specific application. For example, single Round Liner needles in the WJX WONDER line are available in diameters ranging from 0.16 to 0.50 mm.
Needle diameter should therefore not be viewed on its own as an indicator of how “traumatic” or “high-quality” a needle is, but rather as one parameter within the overall working system.
What Is Taper Length, and How Does It Affect Performance?
Taper length refers to the length of the gradually narrowing section of the needle, from the point where the tip begins to form to the very end of the needle.
It is an important parameter that affects the geometry of the needle tip and how the needle interacts with the skin.
The WJX range includes different taper lengths. For example, the manufacturer specifies a 3.5 mm taper for certain Round Shader and Magnum configurations, 5 mm for many Round Liners, and 7 mm for some Round Liner Tight configurations.
It would be incorrect to say that one taper length is universally better than another. Short and long tapers differ in geometry and feel during use, and the choice depends on the configuration, diameter, technique, treatment area, and the artist’s preferences.
Taper length should therefore be considered together with the other characteristics of the cartridge rather than as a standalone indicator of its intended use.
Technical Features: Needle Soldering and Protective Membrane
How Does Needle Soldering Affect Performance?
In multi-needle configurations, individual needles are joined together to create a specific geometry. The quality and precision of this assembly affect the stability of the configuration during use.
For the artist, the final result is what matters most: the needles within the grouping should maintain their intended arrangement, and the configuration itself should retain its geometry throughout the procedure.
According to WJX, its cartridges are manufactured and assembled using specialized high-precision equipment. This helps maintain consistent product characteristics within each product line.
The arrangement of the needles varies depending on the configuration. In a Round Liner, the needles are grouped more tightly; in a Round Shader, they are spaced more loosely; a Magnum creates a wider working surface; and a Round Magnum features a rounded outer edge.
This is why two configurations containing the same number of needles can feel and perform very differently in practice.
What Is a Cartridge Membrane, and Why Is It Important?
The membrane is one of the key structural components of a modern cartridge.
It separates the working part of the cartridge from the machine mechanism and helps prevent the backflow of pigment and biological fluids toward the equipment.
According to WJX, the brand’s cartridges feature a protective membrane made from a specially formulated rubber compound. The manufacturer also states that the membrane is designed to support stable cartridge performance and provide an additional barrier between the working area and the machine.
However, the presence of a membrane does not replace standard infection control requirements, including the use of disposable supplies, barrier protection for equipment, proper workstation preparation, and compliance with applicable hygiene protocols.
Common Beginner Mistakes and Practical Recommendations from WJX
Which Needle Should a Beginner Choose for Practicing Eyeliner?
When learning, it is important not to start with the most complex or largest configurations. A beginner’s primary goal is to learn how to control hand movement, working depth, and line consistency.
Single RL configurations allow artists to clearly observe how the practice material or skin responds to each movement and can be convenient for practicing fine lines.
In its recommendations, WJX suggests 1001RLT as one option for training. As skills develop, artists can progress to multi-needle configurations, such as 3RL.
However, no single configuration can be considered universally suitable for every artist. The choice depends on the technique, equipment, needle diameter, taper, and the specific task.
3RL configurations can also be used for both line work and soft filling, with the final result depending on the technique used.
Larger RL configurations, such as 5RL, create a wider working area. As a result, beginners may find it more difficult to control line thickness when creating very fine eyeliner.
It is important to understand that the RL designation alone does not fully describe a cartridge. For example, 0803RL and 1003RL contain the same number of needles but differ in needle diameter and may therefore feel different during use.
Should You Change the Cartridge During a Single Procedure?
A cartridge is a single-use disposable product intended for use on one client during one procedure only. It must not be reused after the procedure is completed.
During longer procedures, the artist should also monitor the condition of the cartridge.
If the needle begins to noticeably catch on the skin, its movement becomes less stable, pigment implantation becomes less consistent, or other changes in performance occur, the cartridge should be replaced.
WJX recommendations indicate that a cartridge may be replaced after approximately 30–40 minutes of active use, particularly during longer procedures. This should be regarded specifically as a manufacturer’s recommendation rather than a universal time standard for all cartridges and procedures.
The actual need for replacement depends on the duration of the procedure, treatment area, technique, skin characteristics, and the condition of the cartridge itself.
If the artist has any concerns about the condition or integrity of the disposable cartridge, the safest approach is to stop using it and replace it with a new one.
Safety: What Should You Check Before Using a Cartridge?
Before beginning a procedure, carefully inspect the cartridge’s individual packaging.
First, check that the packaging is intact. It should have no tears, punctures, open seals, or other visible damage that could compromise the sterility of the product.
The expiration date and sterilization markings should also be checked if they are provided by the manufacturer on the packaging.
After opening the package, visually inspect the cartridge itself. The housing should be free from damage, cracks, or obvious manufacturing defects. The needle configuration should appear properly aligned and correspond to the configuration stated on the packaging.
If the packaging is damaged, the product has expired, or there is any doubt about the condition of the cartridge, it should not be used.
The sterilization method should also be verified using the labeling of the specific product and the manufacturer’s documentation. The terms “sterilization” and “cleaning” are not interchangeable: sterilization is a separate, controlled process.
Why Does Needle Material Matter?
The material and manufacturing quality of a needle are directly related to the stability of its geometry and its mechanical properties.
According to WJX, its main product line uses needles made from a special medical-grade steel alloy that the manufacturer describes as having a so-called “memory effect.” WJX associates this property with the needle’s ability to maintain its intended geometry during use.
It is important not to confuse the terms “medical-grade” or “surgical” steel with the absence of nickel. Some grades of medical-grade stainless steel contain nickel as part of the alloy. Therefore, it would be inaccurate to assess the safety of a material solely on the presence or absence of a single component.
For professional artists, it is more important to use cartridges from a traceable source, manufactured under controlled conditions, with appropriate labeling and supporting documentation from the manufacturer.
Why Do Artists Choose WJX?
Behind the seemingly simple design of a modern cartridge are numerous components: needle material, configuration precision, taper geometry, cartridge housing, stabilization system, and protective membrane.
According to WJX, the brand focuses on several key areas in the manufacturing of its cartridges.
Needle Material. The manufacturer states that it uses a special medical-grade steel alloy with a so-called “memory effect,” designed to help the needle maintain stable geometry during use.
Assembly Precision. WJX states that its cartridges are assembled using specialized equipment designed to maintain consistent geometry and characteristics across needle configurations.
Cartridge Housing Material. According to the manufacturer, WJX cartridge housings are made from hypoallergenic medical-grade plastic.
Protective Membrane. The manufacturer reports using a specially formulated rubber compound and a proprietary membrane design that serves as a barrier between the working part of the cartridge and the machine mechanism.
Today, WJX has representatives in 17 countries, including the United States and Canada, while the brand’s product range includes a wide variety of configurations for different applications in tattooing and permanent makeup.
How to Choose the Right Needle?
There is no universal needle that is equally suitable for every artist, treatment area, and technique.
When selecting a cartridge, several factors should be considered together: individual needle diameter, the number of needles in the configuration, configuration type — RL, RS, Flat, Magnum, or Round Magnum — taper length, the characteristics of the treatment area and skin, the technique being used, and machine settings.
For beginners, it is more useful to understand how a few basic configurations perform and learn to control them confidently rather than trying to build a collection of as many different configurations as possible.
For experienced professionals, on the other hand, having access to a wider range of configurations makes it possible to adapt the tool more precisely to a specific task.
Ultimately, a cartridge is a tool. Even the most advanced materials and engineering solutions cannot replace a solid understanding of skin anatomy, proper technique, compliance with hygiene requirements, and professional control by the artist.
However, a properly selected tool can help make the work more predictable, precise, and comfortable — which is why understanding needle design and characteristics remains one of the fundamental professional skills in permanent makeup and tattooing.
Want to explore the fundamentals of PMU and equipment settings in more detail? Read more from PULSE PMU: “What Is Permanent Makeup? A Modern Understanding of the Procedure” and “What Is Needle Stroke in Permanent Makeup and Tattooing? Myths, Physics, and the Real Principles Behind Machine Performance”. These guides provide additional insight into the procedure itself and how technical machine parameters can influence an artist’s work.
Disclaimer: The information, opinions, technical specifications, and recommendations presented in this material have been provided by WJX and its team. PULSE PMU acts solely as an informational and publishing platform and assumes no responsibility for the accuracy, completeness, timeliness, or practical application of the information provided by the manufacturer, or for any results arising from the use of the products, methods, or recommendations described. This material is intended for informational and educational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice, medical recommendations, or guidance on diagnosis or treatment, nor does it replace professional training, manufacturer requirements, applicable hygiene protocols, or relevant laws and regulations. All procedures should be performed by qualified professionals within the scope of their professional competence and in accordance with applicable standards and the manufacturer’s instructions.
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Publication date: August 25, 2026
By Mikhail Nikolaevich Shunkin, Commercial Director at WJX
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